EagleRider

Day 13 – Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – New Orleans Louisiana.

I woke up and felt like George  Hanson in a jail cell.     When I looked in the mirror, I saw Keith Richards was staring at me.     It’d been a  long trip.      Burbon Street is an interesting place.

I was to meet Graham in the lobby,  but I was 10 minutes late.   The plan was to go over to St. Louis Cemetery and see some scenes from the movie.   Graham must have seen Keith Richards in the mirror too, he didn’t show so I figured i’d spy it out myself.    I’m always up for coming back.

They filmed the acid trip scenes here.    In fact, this was the first parts of the movie that they filmed, in 16mm film, instead of 35mm.    If you watch the movie, you can tell the quality isn’t as good.     They came down with 30 grand, no plan and Dennis Hoppers ego and the movie nearly ended before it began.

They even missed Mardi Gras by a month.    If you notice in the movie, you don’t see the main Actors in the parade.    They rounded up as many people as they could, and tried to re-create it.

Easy Rider Acid Drop St Louis Cemetary No1
St Louis Cemetery #1 was where they dropped the Acid the Hippy Gave them. They Quartered it.   You’re running out of time.
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Same Spot, 2013.   I’m hip about time.
Toni Basil St Louis Cematary no1 Easy Rider
Acid in the 60’s musta been like the Tequila of the 2000’s. Huh, who’d have thought.
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St Louis Cemetery #1, in 2013
Peter Fondal St Louis Cematary no1 Easy Rider
There’s a story here.
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Same spot, 2013

Peter Fonda’s mother committed suicide when he was 10 years old.    He didn’t know the full story or the reasons why for years.    Dennis had convinced Peter to get up on that statue and talk to his mother in this scene.   He didn’t want to do it.   It was just way too personal, and and to this day he is both embarrassed and proud of that scene in Easy Rider.     He laid it right out there.

When you watch the movie again, you can hear Peter say “shut up!  Shut up!”.     Dennis was a madman on the set back in those days, they’d just started filming and he’d started an argument while Peter was up there, laying his guts out on camera.    He was trying to get through this, and he intermittently kept telling Dennis to shut the hell up.     Tells you a lot about Peter Fonda, and his commitment to this film.

When they finished making the movie, they worked on getting a soundtrack  for it.     In Krotz springs, I told the story about how they’d gotten Bob Dylan to do a song for the film, and his reluctance to do it.     Peter told Bob about the filming of this scene, and his own reluctance to say what he’d  said.      That point, was what finally convinced Bob Dylan to put a song on this film, after a few hours of debate.    He scribbled down the words to “the Ballad of Easy Rider” on a piece of paper, and gave it to Peter.     He told them to have Roger McGuinn of the Byrds put music to it.     It was the final song of the movie.    That was in 1969.

The Easy Rider graveyard/Acid trip isn’t my favorite part of this film, but I can appreciate the significance of it.   It holds a lot of weight to the movie, and it’s a big part of what makes it such a classic period piece of film.    It happened.

I didn’t want to get another cab.   It was early, and figured I’d walk the few miles back to the hotel.    I was in Nawlins, and I wanted to get a better feel for the city.

Hey, on a lighter note:    This was Peter Fonda’s Escort  in the movie of Easy Rider:  Toni Basil.    She was Hawt.

Toni Basil Easy Rider
Toni Basil Easy Rider

Toni Basil in 1981.    Still fine, and holding it together.    You know you like this song.   I’m not gonna lie, I do.

I walked back to the Hotel.

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New Orleans is old. Lots of history here methinks.
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New Orleans, Louisiana

We were to meet at 3 so we could ride the bikes into EagleRider and turn em in.    I got some lunch, took a nap, and took in more of the day.    We all met in the parking garage of the Hampton Inn French Quarter, told some stories from the night before, and rolled out in the rain for the final time.    It was cool, but knowing it was over pretty much sucked.

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EagleRider, New Orleans. Turning the bikes in.

 

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3181 miles  minus the 11 I had when I pulled her out of Los Angeles is 3170 miles in 2 good weeks.

We took a trolley car back to the Hotel, after we’d turned the bikes in.   Brandon had headed out that morning with Captain America in tow, on to another tour.    Steve originally had had to leave us, but in the end he was able to stay and turned us onto a good restaurant in the french quarter.    After a couple of hours, we walked down the french quarter, to the Court of Two Sisters.     This was a really nice place.

Tim made a pretty damn funny comment about the Blues Brothers.

I stared across the table at the people I’d ridden with for the last two weeks.    I really liked these people.   I’ll be honest, I’m a prick.    I don’t like many.   But Ana, Steve, John, Peter, Linda, Pete, Graham, Phil, Helio, Howard, June, Martine, Big D, Timmy, Bruno, Shawn, Bob, Brandon.    You all made this ride fun.     It was nice to share what I knew, and even better to learn what you knew.

We paid the bill, worked our way out, and said our goodbyes.

 

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Corner of Bourbon and Toulouse. Madame Tinkertoys house of Blue LIghts, New Orleans Louisiana. Where George Hanson Never Went, we did.   Easy Rider Inaugural Tour 2013.

We all went our separate ways.    Tim and I walked Bourbon Street, had a few beers and shot the bull.    We rounded back to the bar near the hotel and talked a bit.     Pete & Linda, and Paul and Martine showed up for a few.

Then it was over.    I went back to the Hotel.    I’d fly out in the morning.

I want to ride with these people again.

Day 13 – Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – New Orleans Louisiana. Read More »

Day 6: Easy Rider Tour – Monument Valley to Farmington NM

After breakfast in Kayenta, we loaded up and headed out.     Today would be a short day, but not short on scenery.     Monument Valley was a few miles away.      The wind had died down, the feral dogs were behind us, and we rode on in.     I never get sick of this place.

Easy Rider Monument Valley
In 1969, they rode it at dusk. We rode it at dawn.
Monument Valley 1969
Easy Rider Screenshot from 1969.   In 45 years, the scenery hasn’t changed much.
Captain America bike riding through Monument Valley
Dr. Phil, Riding Captain America through Monument Valley.   Riding this bike just makes you feel cool all over.

EagleRider had another plan for us.   A tour through the valley floor.    Another reason why they’re the best at what they do.    This wasn’t just a motorcycle tour, everything is about the experience.    Its just their mindset.

Little guy (me) didn’t go the bathroom before we left,  so I had to get that handled.  I was holding everyone up, and they took the opportunity to give me a ration of shit coming back to the tour trucks.    lol, perfect.  Felt like I was home.   All in good fun.

Our tour guide was Navajo, and shared his stories.   We weaved around the  valley floor while he told us of Navajo life, history, a little bit of the language, and locations.    A great little tour.

Monument Valley Easy Rider
Two Mittens, Monument Valley
2 mittens Easy Rider monument valley
2 Mittens, screenshot from Easy Rider in 1969
Monument Valley Truck Tour
Mr and Mrs Tczap, and me  (Mr Zip).     Enjoying a tour of valley floor.

 

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The draw of this place is that you can’t really take it all in. A picture is worthless, you just need to see it.
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John Ford Point, Monument Valley. For 2 bucks here, you can sit on a Gelding and pretend you’re master of all you survey. I like this beast, makes me look taller.
Joh Ford, John Ford Point
They Call it John Ford Point for a reason…
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The biggest difference between me and Ana, is she makes this look good.

A fun couple of hours, and another nice break.    Some good conversation, and a good amount of  laughs.     Everyone had a good time I think.    We headed back to our bikes and down the road again.

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I ran ahead, so Bruno could get some pictures. The hill from Forrest Gump.

This is my State.   Pretty proud to live here.

We ran the 24 miles to Mexican Hat.      I first ran through here in 2009, with my 12 year old daughter on a daddy daughter weekend.    It was dusk when we hit Kayenta.   No room, at any inn.    It was dark when we ran through Monument Valley, and headed past Mexican Hat on the bike on the way to Bluff Utah, where we finally found a place to stay.    I remember passing the Mexican Hat lodge Inn in the middle of the night.    Cool little place, lots of neon and out in the middle of nowhere.   Kept thinking how this would be a good place for an old school biker retreat, like they used to do it back in the day.    One year later, I got together with some good friends in B.A.C.A. , of which I’m a member of,  and it ended up happening.  My buddy Drifter knew the guy that owns the land directly below Mexican Hat, and now that retreat happens every year.     Kinda cool.

mexican hat
Mexican Hat

From there we headed to Bluff, Utah for lunch.   Twin Rocks Cafe.

Twin Rocks Cafe, Bluff Utah
ehh, I’d have named it something different.
Twin Rocks Cafe, Bluff Utah
Getting ready to head out. On to Four Corners.
Cannon 113
Utah, Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico.   The only place in the US you can be in 4 states at once.
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Pete and Linda took their turn, heading into Farmington.

The Captain America bike turns heads.     A lot of thumbs up, from people in the know.      Bruno was riding with me still, and about 30 miles outside of farmington in Ship Rock New Mexico, I sped up and so Bruno could take this shot.    Seems like most of my adult riding life I’ve been rubbernecking for old roads.    He sent this to me today.       I quite love this shot.

Captain America - Farmington New Mexico
The Tczaps, crossing the San Juan River.     I dig this picture.

We headed into Farmington.    We checked into the Hotel there, and I had the chance to finally take the Captain bike out.    I took it.    Stopping at red lights, rolling her down the main drag for a few miles….   It was pretty cool.    You know people are looking, and you just can’t but help feeling completely bad-ass.     After all, this is the most famous bike in the world.

And yet, and the end of this day I went down and did my laundry at the Hampton Inn.      It was time.     I called Mrs Zip, found out what was going on at work, and slept like a baby.   Good day.

Day Six – Easy Rider Tour – 175 Miles


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Day 5: Easy Rider Tour – Flagstaff to Kayenta

We left Flagstaff, Fueled up and headed north on highway 89, toward The Sacred Mountain Gas Station from Easy Rider.    This was the first Movie Location from Easy Rider I’d ever found, and I’d ridden by this a dozen times.   I was on my way home, on a Sunday, and blew off the next 2 days chasing down Easy Easy Rider in Arizona.     Riding is fun enough.   Chasing down a mystery makes it even more fun.

Easy Rider Route Tour Sacred Mountain Gas Station
Sacred Mountain Gas Station in 1969
sacred mountain from Easy Rider
Sacred Mountain Gas Station from Easy Rider Today

We pulled in, took some pictures and doubled back.   Not far up the road.

Sunset Crater to Wupatki is one of my favorite roads on the planet.    This trip, it became maybe my favorite.     We were pulling in to pay the park fees, and Steve had asked me to go ahead to the turn off and wait for everyone.    Bruno, an Italian Photographer and all around good guy was my passenger for the day.

No lie, right as I started out, I wasn’t born to Follow by the Byrds came up on my Ipod.   Another good omen.

It was perfect.   The morning still had  shadows and the sun was coming through the trees.   I was wanting to stop to get a picture where they picked the hippy up in the Movie, but I got pretty lost in the moment .   Sunset crater road and scenery haven’t changed since Easy Rider was filmed.    For a couple of minutes, I was in 1969.    For me, that was the best moment of riding the whole trip.     If you go down there to see this, I highly suggest taking that song with you.     Beautiful. I also had plans to have a buddy of mine meet us there, dressed up like a hippy, so we could pick him up for for the full effect.   It ended up not working out.   Next time. Some cool visuals from the movie, on that stretch of road (by the way, click on any image to enlarge):

1969 Route from the Movie Easy Rider 1969 Route from the Movie Easy Rider 1969 Route from the Movie Easy Rider 1969 Route from the Movie Easy Rider

We rode all of it. I rode up the 30 miles up to Waputki, and Bruno and I waited at the turn off.     Bruno is an interesting guy.    For living in Italy, he’s seen more of America than I have.   He has the artists eye, and was good company. Wupatki is where they stopped for the night after they picked up the Hippy.

Wupatki Easy Rider Camping Scene
Wupatki Easy Rider Camping Scene in 1969
Wupatki, Camp Out Scene Easy Rider
We were there.   You could be a trifle, polite.
Waputki - Easy Rider
A small thing to ask.   They’re buried right under ya.

 

Waputki, doing my shpiel
Talking about Easy Rider, Hippies, and Camping on Government Grounds.

We headed out of Waputki.   Only a few miles to the main road again, and back to making miles.    This is where the best song of Easy Rider was filmed. When they were filming, Dennis pushed for them to film in monument Valley at dusk.    When you look at the cinematography, he wasn’t wrong.    Its a big part of why this movie sticks with those who ride.  At this point, we were well into our trip.     I’ll be honest, I was starting to forget what day of the week it even was.    On vacation, thats a good thing.     I’d seen all these places, but never consecutively and not like this.     It was always bolt to a spot, figure it out, and bolt home.    Seeing it as one long ride was pretty special to me.      My bike was purring, the weather was great, and the road wasn’t ending anytime soon. Found a new scene on the way there.     We left highway 89, and headed toward Kayenta.    I’ve ridden this before, but when I did I was always heading the other way.

The Weight, Easy Rider
“Hey Mister can you tell me…
Easy Rider, the Band - the weight
Where a man might find a bed”.
Easy Rider - the Band - the Weight
“He just grinned & shook my hand….
Easy Rider, the Band - The Weight
No was all He said”.

The road into Kayenta was windy.    The road into Kayenta is always windy.    No complaints, we  Knuckled down, and enjoyed  the ride. We got into Kayenta early.    I think it was like 3 PM or so.     The plan was to ride into Monument valley, do a tour and eat Navajo Tacos.     Looking at Monument Valley when we came in, it was a dust bowl.    Steve postponed the original plan, and we’d do it tomorrow.  A few guys went in, but the rest of us took a nap and hung out and relaxed for a while.     I forgot to pack a swim suit, and some pool time would have been nice methinks, but a nap was almost nicer.     After a couple of hours, Graham got restless, and we decided it was time to watch Easy Rider.   We set out.

Kayenta Arizona, Easy Rider Monument Valley
Kayenta Arizona Accommodations.

We found a Motel nearby, that in exchange for bringing in hungry people to eat, they’d furnish a television and a VCR.    Graham talked them into it.   We watched Easy Rider.

watching easy rider
Watching Easy Rider, and Having dinner.

It was pretty cool to see on video the places we’d rode on the previous days.    We headed back, and slept for a night.   A good meal, and a nice break.   Another good day was going to happen tomorrow. Day Five – 184 Miles View Larger Map

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Day 1: Eagle Rider -Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – LAX to Ballarat

Everyone had been checked out on their bikes, we had a welcome dinner the night before and were all ready to ride.       left the Hotel after breakfast, mounted up, and headed out. First stop was LAX, a couple of miles away.     This is where  Billy and Wyatt  sold the 2 batteries of whatever-that-white-powder-was before their ride to Mardi Gras.

Getting Ready to Head out for the Easy Rider Inaugural Tour
Getting locked and loaded, ready to start out.   Finding Easy Rider.
Easy Rider LAX - MrZip66
First Stop, LAX. Painting a picture of what happened here in Easy Rider in 1969.   That punk Phil Spector was a no-show.   Fokker.

From there, we made miles.   Headed out of the city…. a long way from the city, because that’s where we wanted to be.   Out of LA, to Death Valley.    More Easy Rider there — The scenery started to open up,  and the riding started to get nice.

First Gas Stop
First Gas Stop. I have no idea where this is.   California, something.

You can tell a lot from a crew by the way they ride.      This was a good crew.     Everyone kept tight where they needed to be, and loose where they wanted.   They’d done this before. Steve, Our tour guide got a flat  in the California desert.    Hazards of going first I guess.   No matter, we had a spare bike and EagleRider had it handled.    That spare bike came in handy.   We hydrated at a rest stop for a short time, and that was the last bike incident of the trip. We headed north on the 395 towards Ballarat.

Rest stop,  Swapping bikes
Rest stop in California, Swapping bikes. If there are road hazards, Steve will take a bullet for the team and run over them for you.
Easy Rider - North on the 395
Open Road Ahead.   I’ve missed the desert.

San Bernardino county is the largest county in the US, and it took us awhile to cross it. Stopped for lunch in Trona, California.     Trona is a funny place.  Pretty clearly a company mining town.   I gotta say,   They make a good burger. We were all fired up.    Shawn and Bob busted out Captain America.    This was the Easy Rider Tour, after all.     It had to happen.

Busting out Captain America in Trona
Busting out Captain America in Trona

Graham from the UK is hardcore Easy Rider.   He’s got a replica Captain America bike signed by Peter Fonda.   He knows the movie by heart.   A great guy.   Amicable, and really pretty damn funny.   We started throwing movie references at each other by now.    He was the first to take the helm.   It seemed right.

MrZip66 on Captain America
My turn on the Captain.

We headed out of Trona, and made the 20 miles into Ballarat, where the movie really began.

Shorty Harris's Home, Ballarat.
Shorty Harris’s Home, Ballarat.
Easy Rider Scene
Ditch your watch.
Ballarat CA Easy Rider
Like Captain America Did
Shorty Harris House Now
Shorty Harris House Now. It’s fallen in more since I saw it last.
Easy Rider Inagural Tour MrZip66
The bike  and I, Ballarat.   A good moment.

It was here that one of the top 5 most embarrassing moments of my life happened.   We were waiting for Graham, who was riding Captain America and missed the turn off to Ballarat.   We were waiting for him, before I talked about what happened here in the movie.    I took a drink of water (A man needs to hydrate), right when Bob said “Graham couldn’t make the turn, riding with an erection”.   I lost it.    It was then I spewed water all over the nicest lady you’ll ever meet, Martine from Beligium.     She took it in stride, and I’m pretty sure I turned red.

Ballarat California Easy Rider
Recovering from spraying Martine with Water.   Eggghhh..
Heading out of Ballarat
Heading out of Ballarat

I never set up a song for this trip.    when we left, I shook the ipod and whatever played, played.    Half way up the road, Born to Be wild started playing, just like it did in the film.   Another good omen.    It was perfect.    We were starting the riding part of the movie, and I was eating it up.

From Ballarat, we headed the 80 miles to Furnace Creek for the night.   Its an EagleRider tradition to crack a beer in the parking lot, and toast to the days ride.    The first day was under our belt.    Had dinner with Graham and the Aussies, then turned in for the night.    Great first day.   I slept like a baby, looking forward to another one.

Day one:  311 miles View Larger Map

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EagleRider’s Easy Rider Movie Inaugural Motorcycle Tour – Riding the Route from the Movie Easy Rider

 

Day 0:   EagleRider Offices, El Segundo CA

Flew into LA a couple of days before, and the next day headed over to EagleRider for a meeting about the trip.   Met the EagleRider crew, and talked about the route.

I’ll admit, I had no idea what to expect.   I just saw a group of people from the UK, Switzerland, Brazil, New Jersey, Belgium and Australia.   Just names on paper.    Could be good or bad, and I had no idea.      I was  ready to ride and I’d figure it out as I went along.   Met Steve, our tour guide for the first time.    He seemed professional and pretty easy going.   In the end, my instincts weren’t wrong.      Brandon was on his first run with EagleRider on the chase vehicle, and felt we were both kind of in the same boat in a way.    We spent the morning getting a few things ready, checking out a few locations, having some lunch and shooting the shit.    We drove over to LAX to find a spot to park the bikes for our first stop, just as a plane was coming in right over our heads, just like in the movie.

Easy Rider LAX

 

A Good omen.    The first of a few on this trip.   It was starting to feel  like I’d finally gotten here.

We headed back to EagleRider to get ready for everyone to arrive and get everything ready.     We spent some time loading Captain America, a spare bike, and double checking equipment and tools.    I paid attention and tried to learn a thing.   Getting a feel for this tour, and how EagleRider works.

Easy Rider Tour
Easy Rider Tour Signage.   EagleRider did this right.  Official Tour of the Movie.    No one else can claim that.

I knew they’d built the bikes for this ride, but I’d never seen them up close.  I am not gonna lie – I had a woody.

Captain America Bike
First thing you notice on the Captain America BIke
Captain America Bike
Pretty damn nice job methinks
Billy Bike - Easy Rider
The Billy Bike
Easy Rider Billy Bike
Another Shot

Beautiful  bikes.     EagleRider did a good job.

About the bikes:  no, they’re not hardcore original.    Even Peter Fonda didn’t ride the whole route on a hardtail.   They’re softails, and V-twin engines.    They’re made to  ride.     They look pretty damn good.

Got to drive the EagleRider van to pick  people up.   They launched a whole lotta tours that day, so it was kinda hectic.   The focus for them is customer experience.    In my 2 weeks, it showed over and over.

 When everything was somewhat settled,  they gave me my bike for this trip.   2013 Street Glide.   Six speed, 103.     11 miles on her.

2013 Street Glide
2013 Street Glide. My bike for this ride.

We all got our bikes going, headed to the hotel.   Then dinner, at Gene Simmons Rock and Brews.      Pretty Cool Place.  Conversation was good, and we were all looking forward to tomorrows ride I think.

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Everyone was a stranger at that point.    That  would change.    In the morning, we’d  ride.   Quick Easy Rider stop at LAX, then on to Death Valley where the movie really starts.

 

EagleRider’s Easy Rider Movie Inaugural Motorcycle Tour – Riding the Route from the Movie Easy Rider Read More »

The Easy Rider Inaugural Tour with EagleRider

Exactly one week ago, about this time, I was sitting in the Court of Two Sisters, a   Restaurant in the French Quarter of New Orleans, wondering where the last 2 weeks went.

After 2 weeks of riding, I was pretty beat.   We’d ridden half way across the country,  But I really didn’t want it to be over.    Met some solid and quality people on this trip, got to tell  about the movie that I love and spend years figgering out, and had the longest stretch of riding I’d ever done at one time.   Basically, I just had the best time of my life.

I was going to do this post each night on the road, but I wanted time to think about it some.    Even one week later, I’m still not sure I’ve digested it all.

So anyway, going to take this day by day, as I remember it, starting over 3 weeks ago.    Ill get through as much of it as I can.   A post a day, for the next 15 days should cover it.

To me, it was the best time of my life.   I wanna do it again.

here’s a primer:

We rode all of it, and then some.

 

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